Another dawn with sunshine and fair skies. We got a slow start, however, because sleep had evaded me the night before. But like Mom always used to say, “Well, that just means I’ll have a great night of sleep tonight.” Which is a practical approach when traveling.
So off we went to explore the Shambles and all the weekend markets set up around the Minster area. We made our way through flower stalls, leather goods, farm produce, and every kind of artistic chicanery you can think of. In spite of the crowds and surfeit of merchandise, there was much to enjoy.There are some amazingly well preserved Tudor-era buildings around the Minster.
The little Shambles street was crawling with tourists, so Ruth and I thrust ourselves into the throng and joined the picture-snapping crowd. Note how the upper stories of the medieval buildings overhang the street. One shop in particular, a Harry Potter take-off, caught our eye. It was one of the most popular on the street.
A spin-off on Berkin and Borks (sp?)
Ruth bought herself a lovely leather purse made in Kenya—it’s so healthy to be able to buy a small luxury for yourself, if you’re born and bred a Calvinist. Another splurge: two scones, Cornwall clotted cream, and two cartons of fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice from Marks & Spencer. This is high living for Ruth and me!
We hurried home for lunch and a nap (we walk everywhere here), because we’d booked a 3 pm slot at the Jorvik Viking Centre—only a 10-minute walk from Dewsbury Terrace. The Viking center was really interesting but yet a bit thin. Basically you stand on a small portion of a Viking dig (protected by glass) and talk with very knowledgeable and entertaining docents for about 20 minutes, then get on an automated, narrated ride through a recreated Viking village (about 15 minutes). Then you walk through a corridor containing 30-40 displays of items found in the York dig. You have to be careful when talking to docents, because once they get on a subject they don’t want to let you go.
We made a lovely stir-fry with rice for dinner, then dressed and walked to the Minster for a 7:30 concert “Song of the Roses,” a choral concert featuring the Ebor Singers and a talented Yorkshire violinist. It featured songs by Philip Moore, composer and long-time chorale director at the Minster. The concert was in the chapter house—a round stone room with high ceilings, so great acoustics—and Ruth and I sat right behind Philip Moore and his family. The singing was exquisite, particularly “The Three Prayers of Dietrich Bonhoeffer” and Moore’s choral accompaniment of Vaughn Williams’ “The Lark Ascending.”
In stark contrast to the ethereal music in the Minster was the cacophony on the streets of York as Ruth and I walked to the concert and back home again. I’ve never seen so many drunk people in one place in my life. I was glad Ruth was there to keep me safe. :-)
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